Finance

Galib Gassanoff, a designer hailing from Georgia and Azerbaijan, is currently preparing to present his Fall/Winter 2026 collection in Milan. Simultaneously, his label, Institution by Galib Gassanoff, has earned a spot as a semi-finalist for the prestigious 2026 LVMH Prize, with the subsequent phase scheduled for Paris Fashion Week. Gassanoff, no stranger to competitive success, recently clinched the Zalando Visionary Award in Copenhagen, securing significant funding and a platform for his Spring/Summer 2027 collection. Despite these accolades, his vision diverges from merely scaling a luxury brand; instead, he is dedicated to fostering a deliberate enterprise that champions and sustains the artisanal communities foundational to his upbringing and design ethos. His work emphasizes unique hand-crafted elements, weaving rich narratives and histories into each piece, a commitment that, while challenging for profit margins, remains central to his brand's identity.

Gassanoff's unique business philosophy sees Institution by Galib Gassanoff not primarily as a commercial venture but as an ongoing project. To achieve his goals, he forges partnerships with cultural organizations, such as Azerbaijan’s Ministry of Culture and Rome’s Capital Culture House, securing vital financial support. This funding directly benefits the artisan communities who contribute to his creations. While his brand maintains a modest presence through select stockists in global fashion hubs like Milan, Tbilisi, and Osaka, it avoids the pressures of rapid expansion. The recent Zalando prize money provided crucial resources, enabling him to cover operational costs, support his small team, and compensate the skilled artisans involved in his collections. This structured yet flexible approach allows Gassanoff to focus on the integrity of his craft and the well-being of his collaborators.

The designer's journey into fashion began in rural Georgia, where exposure to the internet and visits to Tbilisi ignited his passion. His early career saw him win the Georgian Fashion Council’s BeNext contest in 2013, leading him to study at the Haute Future Fashion Academy in Milan. However, he soon realized that navigating the fashion industry required more than just talent; it often demanded participation in social circles he preferred to avoid. This realization led him to establish Act No.1 with classmate Luca Lin in 2016. The venture achieved considerable success, expanding to 50 stockists and a substantial team. Yet, the demands of rapid growth ultimately clashed with Gassanoff's desire for authenticity and creative control, prompting him to leave the brand in 2024 to found Institution.

At Institution, Gassanoff meticulously develops each collection by visiting diverse communities across Georgia and Azerbaijan, exploring their unique artisanal skills. This collaborative process involves brainstorming ideas with artisans, ensuring their input and craftsmanship are integral to the final products. While rewarding, this method presents logistical hurdles, particularly concerning deadlines and communication, as many artisans balance their craft with household responsibilities and face challenges like unreliable infrastructure. To mitigate these issues, Gassanoff plans collections many months in advance, adopting a flexible approach that respects the artisans' traditional way of life. This deliberate pace underscores his commitment to preserving authentic craftsmanship, even if it means maintaining a smaller operational scale.

Looking ahead, Institution will host its initial sales showrooms in Paris, aiming to attract international wholesale accounts after showcasing at the LVMH showroom. Gassanoff acknowledges the limited production capacity and the premium cost of some pieces, which reflect the extensive hand-dyeing and stitching required. He envisions a future where made-to-measure orders become a cornerstone of his business, catering to a growing clientele of art collectors and entrepreneurs. This model aligns with his ambition to nurture a loyal fanbase that values the unique stories and artisanal heritage embedded in his creations, rather than chasing fleeting trends or mass market appeal. His ultimate goal is to evolve Institution into a robust business that supports his artistic vision and the communities he cherishes, without succumbing to the pressures of conventional luxury brand expansion.

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