Finance

In an inspiring move towards sustainability, the innovative jewelry brand Tom Wood has embarked on a groundbreaking collaboration with Lundhs, the world's sole producer of Norwegian larvikite. This partnership is transforming discarded larvikite, a material traditionally destined for gravel, into exquisite high-end jewelry pieces. This initiative not only redefines luxury but also champions an unprecedented level of transparency and environmental stewardship within the jewelry sector. By directly engaging with the source, Tom Wood is meticulously tracing its materials, ensuring ethical practices, and fostering a supply chain model that prioritizes both people and the planet. This visionary approach is setting a new benchmark for the industry, proving that profitability and profound responsibility can indeed coexist harmoniously.

Pioneering a Transparent Future: Tom Wood's Partnership with Lundhs

Last week, a journalist from Vogue Business visited Lundhs' quarry in Norway, donning a hard hat and hi-vis vest to witness firsthand the innovative partnership between Oslo-based brand Tom Wood and Lundhs, the world's only extractor of the Norwegian natural stone, larvikite. This collaboration aims to transform the quarry's waste into high-end jewelry, marking a significant step towards sustainability in the luxury sector.

Larvikite, traditionally extracted in large slabs for facades and countertops, sees only 8-10% of its yield utilized, with the remainder ground into gravel. Tom Wood is now using a small fraction of this discarded larvikite to craft ornamental stones for its unisex jewelry collection, including beaded bracelets, looping necklaces, dainty earrings, and its signature signet rings. This "jewelry equivalent of deadstock" diverts material from waste streams, reflecting Lundhs' broader effort to find alternative uses for its excess.

Beyond product creation, this partnership addresses a critical need for supply chain traceability in the notoriously opaque jewelry industry. While tracing traditional jewelry components like metals, diamonds, and gemstones is challenging due to numerous intermediaries, larvikite's unique origin in Norway's Larvik municipality simplifies its traceability. The stone, known for its shimmering silver, blue, and green flecks, is often called 'Norwegian moonstone' or 'blue pearl granite'.

Mona Jensen, founder and creative director of Tom Wood, experienced the difficulties of tracing larvikite, initially being directed to suppliers in Thailand and then China, who lacked clear documentation of the stone's journey from Norway. This led Tom Wood to establish a direct partnership with Lundhs. Jensen emphasizes that transparency is about understanding the human element: "It's about knowing who was involved, how they were treated, what they were paid, and what type of facilities they work in."

The "mine-to-market" model is not new, with brands like Monica Vinader and De Beers Group having similar programs. However, Tom Wood, a smaller independent brand producing about 100,000 items annually (compared to Pandora's 112 million), demonstrates outsized ambition. By 2024, the brand will exclusively use recycled metals (gold, silver, rhodium) and lab-grown diamonds from renewable energy-powered factories. Traceability at this level is a considerable undertaking, particularly for larvikite, which is rarely used in jewelry.

Morten Isachsen, Tom Wood's CEO and Jensen's husband, notes that this endeavor challenges industry norms and responds to increasing demands from wholesale retailers and incoming regulations. "For centuries, the jewelry industry has been very protective, from mines to middlemen. Traceability is the missing link, but it's still a very rare thing. That is what's needed, so that is what we do," he states.

Working directly with Lundhs allows Tom Wood to explore larvikite's aesthetic potential. Lundhs' team members actively search for unique shades and cross-sections within discarded stone, even identifying a specific quarry corner for darker larvikite. This collaboration has expanded sourcing to include blue larvikite and anorthosite from Lundhs' western Norway quarry. Such close cooperation enables reactive planning, exemplified by a recent discovery of a previously unseen stone streak that Tom Wood is considering for a limited edition.

While some suppliers hesitate due to scrutiny concerns, Lundhs already implements a robust traceability system for its large slabs, marking each with a unique number to track its quarry origin and landowner profits. For Tom Wood's smaller stones, Lundhs hand-picks and sets them aside, with Tom Wood managing its own tracing platform.

Tom Wood plans to extend this meticulous traceability to other stones like blue hawk's eye, black onyx, mother of pearl, and tiger's eye, currently sourced through less transparent channels. Jensen acknowledges the challenges, especially with natural stones, but remains optimistic about finding suitable mines with the necessary certifications. Rather than forcing problematic materials into sustainable frameworks, Tom Wood seeks beauty in alternatives. Jensen highlights larvikite's inherent sapphire inclusions and its affordability compared to diamonds, allowing them to offer well-priced rings.

Despite the abundance of leftover larvikite, its aesthetic might not suit every brand. However, Tom Wood's open-minded approach is scalable. Monica Vinader, for instance, also embraces recycled metals and lab-grown diamonds, applying a mine-to-market model to individual stones, with over 50% of its gemstones traced and digital product passports for 75% of its range. Such initiatives are becoming the norm as traceability regulations intensify.

Tom Wood's traceability efforts are underpinned by a strong business, earning respect from both fashion and sustainability professionals. Isachsen stresses the importance of profitability to invest in these programs and the volume to influence suppliers. The brand's long-standing relationships with suppliers have led them to adopt similar certifications, extending these practices to other clients. Tom Wood also fosters industry-wide change through its annual "Accelerating Change Through Meaningful Conversations" summit in Japan, convening leaders from various sectors to share knowledge.

A key sustainability goal for Tom Wood is decoupling financial growth from material resource use. The brand has significantly reduced CO2e emissions from 456 tonnes in 2022 to 297 tonnes in 2025, even with increased production volumes. This reduction is attributed to a packaging overhaul (from recycled plastic to aluminum), investment in sustainable aviation fuel, and reduced business travel. Isachsen acknowledges the challenge of maintaining growth while lowering emissions but views it as a marathon. "We have showcased strong financial and profit growth for 13 years in a row and, at the same time, invested more than ever in sustainability and responsibility," he concludes, highlighting the brand's unwavering commitment to its vision.

Tom Wood's innovative partnership with Lundhs, transforming waste larvikite into exquisite jewelry, serves as a beacon of hope and a practical blueprint for the luxury industry. This collaboration not only showcases the immense potential of upcycling and ethical sourcing but also underscores the critical importance of supply chain transparency. In an era where consumers increasingly demand accountability, Tom Wood's commitment to knowing the origins of its materials and ensuring fair practices sets a formidable example. It inspires other brands to rethink their conventional approaches, embrace resourcefulness, and recognize that true luxury lies not just in aesthetic appeal, but in a profound respect for the environment and the people who contribute to its creation. This isn't merely a business strategy; it's a moral imperative, proving that a sustainable future for fashion is not only possible but also economically viable and immensely rewarding.