Finance

Vivetta Ponti, a renowned designer, has unveiled her latest venture, Venerdì Pomeriggio, marking a significant pivot in her career. This new brand, whose name translates to "Friday Afternoon," symbolizes a fresh start, emphasizing a slower, more deliberate approach to fashion. Ponti aims to create a sustainable and accessible luxury brand through limited capsule collections, direct sales, and a focus on unique, domestically inspired designs crafted from repurposed materials.

Vivetta Ponti's Reimagined Fashion Vision: "Venerdì Pomeriggio" Embraces Sustainability and Intimacy

Vivetta Ponti, an acclaimed figure in the fashion world, recently introduced her new label, Venerdì Pomeriggio (Friday Afternoon), a concept born from a challenging personal period. She envisions the brand as a serene escape, akin to the calm solace of a Friday afternoon, encouraging moments of freedom and self-expression through attire. Ponti's new direction eschews the traditional fashion calendar, opting instead for a series of small, genderless capsule collections released periodically. This strategy enables the brand to maintain quality and exclusivity, avoiding the pressures of mass production and frequent discounting. By selling directly to consumers and through a select network of boutiques, Ponti ensures affordability without compromising on artistic integrity. The inaugural collection draws heavily from domestic aesthetics, featuring innovative designs such as a dress fashioned from two layered, intricately embroidered tablecloths, transforming into a literal table structure during the runway show. Another notable piece, the "lamp dress," translates the form of a chandelier into a wearable sculpture. The collection also includes prairie dresses adorned with lace, Victorian-inspired elements, bloomers, nautical collars, and pajama sets, all evoking a sense of nostalgic comfort. A cornerstone of Venerdì Pomeriggio is its unwavering commitment to sustainability. All garments are crafted from deadstock or upcycled fabrics, meticulously sourced across Italy. Ponti’s approach involves acquiring every available meter of a discovered fabric, ensuring that each piece is unique and cannot be replicated once the material is depleted. Interior textiles like upholstery florals, striped poplins, and polka-dot georgettes are recontextualized into apparel with exquisite finishes, including carefully edged pockets and meticulous binding. Denim is embellished with colorful floral embroidery, and vintage leather is reimagined with intricate ribbon detailing. Even accessories, such as silk scrunchies, moiré laptop cases, and silk pouches, are made from warehouse remnants, adorned with care, and embroidered in Puglia. Footwear collaborations, like those with ViBi Venezia for velvet Mary Janes and Superduper for sculptural hats, further highlight the brand's artisanal focus. The brand's packaging extends this narrative of intimacy and care, featuring logoed ribbons, tiny house-shaped accessory boxes revealing the color of socks inside, and whimsical stickers. These elements are designed to evoke the warmth and personal touch of being invited into someone's home on a Friday afternoon. Ponti’s mother, a consistent source of inspiration, was also present on the runway, wearing a pink and white striped ensemble, underscoring the brand's familial and personal roots. The runway presentation, staged within an apartment setting adorned with themed wallpaper, saw men embracing traditionally feminine styles, and brand friends showcasing playful "cat bags." Ponti's overarching vision is to re-establish a romantic connection with fashion, fostering a happy, small team dedicated to producing exceptional creations.

Ponti's initiative transcends mere fashion; it’s a profound commentary on consumerism and the pursuit of mindful living. In an era dominated by rapid fashion cycles and transient trends, her dedication to sustainable practices, artisanal craftsmanship, and a limited production model offers a refreshing alternative. It reminds us that true luxury resides not in abundance, but in authenticity, scarcity, and a deep appreciation for the creative process and the environmental impact of our choices. Venerdì Pomeriggio invites both the industry and consumers to pause, reflect, and embrace a more meaningful, romantic relationship with clothing.

Galib Gassanoff, a designer hailing from Georgia and Azerbaijan, is currently preparing to present his Fall/Winter 2026 collection in Milan. Simultaneously, his label, Institution by Galib Gassanoff, has earned a spot as a semi-finalist for the prestigious 2026 LVMH Prize, with the subsequent phase scheduled for Paris Fashion Week. Gassanoff, no stranger to competitive success, recently clinched the Zalando Visionary Award in Copenhagen, securing significant funding and a platform for his Spring/Summer 2027 collection. Despite these accolades, his vision diverges from merely scaling a luxury brand; instead, he is dedicated to fostering a deliberate enterprise that champions and sustains the artisanal communities foundational to his upbringing and design ethos. His work emphasizes unique hand-crafted elements, weaving rich narratives and histories into each piece, a commitment that, while challenging for profit margins, remains central to his brand's identity.

Gassanoff's unique business philosophy sees Institution by Galib Gassanoff not primarily as a commercial venture but as an ongoing project. To achieve his goals, he forges partnerships with cultural organizations, such as Azerbaijan’s Ministry of Culture and Rome’s Capital Culture House, securing vital financial support. This funding directly benefits the artisan communities who contribute to his creations. While his brand maintains a modest presence through select stockists in global fashion hubs like Milan, Tbilisi, and Osaka, it avoids the pressures of rapid expansion. The recent Zalando prize money provided crucial resources, enabling him to cover operational costs, support his small team, and compensate the skilled artisans involved in his collections. This structured yet flexible approach allows Gassanoff to focus on the integrity of his craft and the well-being of his collaborators.

The designer's journey into fashion began in rural Georgia, where exposure to the internet and visits to Tbilisi ignited his passion. His early career saw him win the Georgian Fashion Council’s BeNext contest in 2013, leading him to study at the Haute Future Fashion Academy in Milan. However, he soon realized that navigating the fashion industry required more than just talent; it often demanded participation in social circles he preferred to avoid. This realization led him to establish Act No.1 with classmate Luca Lin in 2016. The venture achieved considerable success, expanding to 50 stockists and a substantial team. Yet, the demands of rapid growth ultimately clashed with Gassanoff's desire for authenticity and creative control, prompting him to leave the brand in 2024 to found Institution.

At Institution, Gassanoff meticulously develops each collection by visiting diverse communities across Georgia and Azerbaijan, exploring their unique artisanal skills. This collaborative process involves brainstorming ideas with artisans, ensuring their input and craftsmanship are integral to the final products. While rewarding, this method presents logistical hurdles, particularly concerning deadlines and communication, as many artisans balance their craft with household responsibilities and face challenges like unreliable infrastructure. To mitigate these issues, Gassanoff plans collections many months in advance, adopting a flexible approach that respects the artisans' traditional way of life. This deliberate pace underscores his commitment to preserving authentic craftsmanship, even if it means maintaining a smaller operational scale.

Looking ahead, Institution will host its initial sales showrooms in Paris, aiming to attract international wholesale accounts after showcasing at the LVMH showroom. Gassanoff acknowledges the limited production capacity and the premium cost of some pieces, which reflect the extensive hand-dyeing and stitching required. He envisions a future where made-to-measure orders become a cornerstone of his business, catering to a growing clientele of art collectors and entrepreneurs. This model aligns with his ambition to nurture a loyal fanbase that values the unique stories and artisanal heritage embedded in his creations, rather than chasing fleeting trends or mass market appeal. His ultimate goal is to evolve Institution into a robust business that supports his artistic vision and the communities he cherishes, without succumbing to the pressures of conventional luxury brand expansion.