Finance

Just ahead of their Fall 2026 presentation for Loewe, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez immersed themselves in their own creations. Hernandez expressed a personal desire for a pair of rubber-toed slip-on sneakers, reminiscent of aquatic footwear merged with climbing shoes. While perusing a display of vibrantly hued suede bags in their Parisian design studio, Hernandez selected a sleek, rounded black nubuck briefcase, prompting McCollough to declare his intention to acquire the brown variant. This firsthand engagement was a novel and exhilarating experience for the creative partners, who, since founding their acclaimed NYC-based label, Proenza Schouler, in 2002, had exclusively designed women's apparel. Their transition to the LVMH-owned Spanish luxury house last year, following Jonathan Anderson’s departure to Dior, marked their inaugural venture into menswear. McCollough playfully noted their 'selfish reasons' for excitement as Hernandez modeled a bomber jacket adorned with three layered hoods, evoking an abstract sculpture of fuzzy shearling and gingham check, which fit him impeccably.

The designers presented several imaginative outerwear pieces that capture the vibrant essence they infuse into Loewe: a leather parka designed to inflate like a life vest, a check bomber with a billowy, cropped silhouette dubbed a 'mushroom fit,' an overcoat crafted from an advanced fabric intricately woven and embroidered with flossy yarn to mimic cascading brown ostrich feathers, and a seamless sky-blue leather hoodie. While this season has seen an abundance of serious, cinematic menswear, suggesting a universal aspiration to emulate French film noir aesthetics, these two visionaries offer a compelling counter-narrative. Their eccentric perspective is both whimsical and tactile, sparking the imagination and encouraging individuality. As they moved through the racks, the designers gleefully showcased a tiny rubber pajama top, seemingly destined for Harry Styles, which McCollough mischievously described as 'a little pervy.' Hernandez elaborated, highlighting a 'preppy, dorky vibe' executed with a 'demented' twist that they adore. Having been inseparable since their 1998 meeting at a New York nightclub as Parsons students, McCollough and Hernandez are affectionately known in the fashion world as 'the boys.' Now, they are the 'Loewe boys,' exuding a youthful energy that suggests they are perpetually in motion. They expressed surprise upon learning that their provocative Loewe campaign by Talia Chetrit was prominently displayed across Paris, having been fully engrossed in concurrently developing seven collections. Hernandez remarked that they practically reside in their design studio.

Despite sharing the relentless work ethic common among luxury fashion's elite, McCollough and Hernandez remain grounded, eschewing pretense. Their attire reflects their enduring style—a fusion of creative director uniform and prep-inspired elements, favoring vintage Polo knits, straight trousers, and matching black Salomon sneakers. Their quick wit and ability to complete each other's sentences underscore their deep connection. When asked about their decision to depart Proenza Schouler for the prestigious LVMH role, McCollough stated, 'We've never had a long-term plan, ever.' Hernandez added that they were simply 'bored in New York' after a long tenure, and when Loewe extended the invitation, they enthusiastically accepted. Upon joining Loewe, the duo rekindled the effervescent energy of their early twenties, when Proenza catapulted them to New York fashion fame. Their innate experimental streak, combined with Loewe's extensive resources, has ignited a new wave of creativity. Hernandez noted, 'We're pushing the technical boundaries of what's possible in creation,' a sentiment echoed by McCollough, who described the capabilities as 'incredible.' They retain the artisanal sensibility honed during years of operating on an independent budget. They pointed to a furry hoodie, with its top half shaved brown and bottom shaggy blonde shearling. Hernandez humorously revealed, 'We sent it to poodle groomers!', a testament to their dedication to craftsmanship. Though their new city might offer little time for leisure, they are evidently reveling in their professional journey. Following their successful women's debut last September, menswear presented their next significant challenge. Hernandez observed that menswear felt 'more personal because we're boys,' while McCollough suggested it might be 'easier.' However, he acknowledged the inherent difficulty in assembling a suit for men, where 'it's all about the proportion of the lapel, and how long it is, and the underpinnings—what the styling is,' requiring attention to 'nuances and details,' whereas women's fashion often allows for 'bolder gestures.' The pieces flowed seamlessly, blurring traditional gender lines in materials and forms. McCollough explained, 'When we started editing the pieces, we almost ignored who was a boy and who was a girl. We were more looking at flow and how things connect to one another.' Their menswear vision will take center stage in a solo show during Paris Fashion Week's men's edition in June. Their foundation is robust; a spongy, slim navy suit styled over a quirky plaid mockneck and gingham silk shirt immediately caught the eye. Even the simplest garments held clever surprises, such as corduroy jeans made from meticulously shaved shearling, featuring razor-straight wide wales, a detail presumably not handled by the poodle groomers this time. The designers also revealed that a bright green molded latex overcoat, designed for the runway's dynamic display, would be adapted into wool for retail. Hernandez described it as 'very much like an idea, an expression, a feeling, a materiality thing,' with McCollough adding, 'And then you'll go into the stores and there's going to be tons to buy.' When considering what they would personally acquire, McCollough highlighted a chunky ski sweater with a vibrant gingham pattern, paired with cotton jeans coated in traffic cone-orange latex. While he admitted it was more of a 'show look' and perhaps not something he would wear personally, he noted, 'I think that's very much the attitude of how we dress. Our shirts are always kind of tucked in, our pants are usually kind of straight and boyish.' Hernandez presented a sweater that, from a distance, appeared to be a sophisticated plaid knit suitable for a late night in the studio. Closer inspection revealed it was crafted from ultrathin leather fabric, intricately knitted using specialized machinery. McCollough commented, 'I mean, that's kind of how I dress, just not in those materials.' Hernandez contemplated the leather sweater, seemingly adding it to his mental shopping cart, exclaiming, 'I might!'.

In the dynamic world of fashion, the journey of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez at Loewe exemplifies the power of innovation, adaptability, and unwavering passion. Their ability to infuse a fresh, playful spirit into luxury menswear, while honoring meticulous craftsmanship, inspires a renewed appreciation for creativity and bold self-expression. Their story reminds us that true artistry transcends conventional boundaries, encouraging us to embrace new challenges and redefine possibilities in pursuit of our creative visions.