Finance

Jean-Denis Franoux, a former fashion educator and designer, has cultivated an exceptional fashion archive, 'Regarderobes,' comprising 25,000 pieces. This collection, born from a profound passion for understanding garment creation, functions as an endowment fund to serve educational and institutional purposes, rather than existing as a conventional museum display. Franoux's journey began with perfume bottles before evolving into a lifelong dedication to clothing, driven by a desire to comprehend the intricacies of design and wearability. His discerning eye has gathered significant works from pivotal designers spanning various eras, from early 20th-century haute couture to influential avant-garde pieces, all united by their distinctive cut and construction.

Franoux's approach to collecting is guided by an intellectual curiosity into the 'whys and hows' of fashion. He prioritizes pieces that demonstrate innovative design and represent key moments in a designer's early career, such as the foundational works of Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo. The 'Regarderobes' initiative seeks to foster a deeper appreciation for fashion's historical and structural dimensions, offering students and institutions access to a living library of sartorial evolution. Through exhibitions and publications, Franoux envisions a future where unexpected connections between disparate pieces can ignite new dialogues and inspire a fresh perspective on fashion, emphasizing the creative process over individual notoriety.

The Genesis of a Grand Fashion Archive

Jean-Denis Franoux's journey into the world of fashion archiving began not with garments, but with an early fascination for perfume bottles. This initial inclination for collecting objects in their serial dimension, observing variations around a singular theme, naturally transitioned to clothing. As a fashion student in Paris in the 1990s, Franoux meticulously acquired pieces from flea markets, evolving into a dedicated vintage hunter through online platforms and auctions. This pursuit was never about mere acquisition or speculation, but stemmed from an inherent need to dissect and comprehend the foundational principles of shape, cut, and construction in fashion.

His extensive archive, now numbering 25,000 items, includes rare treasures from design giants like John Galliano, Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto, and Martin Margiela, alongside historical pieces from Madeleine Vionnet, Balenciaga, and Madame Grès. Each acquisition contributes to a comprehensive narrative of fashion's evolution, offering insights into the minds of designers who shaped the industry. Franoux's collection, formalized as the 'Regarderobes' endowment fund, is legally protected from dispersal, ensuring its availability as a vital educational resource for schools and other institutions, preserving its integrity against potential misuse.

A Collector's Philosophy: Beyond the Price Tag

Franoux's philosophy as a collector is deeply rooted in the study of 'cut,' which he believes is the driving force behind all fashion. He is particularly drawn to designers who ignited his passion for fashion, such as Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, whose early works challenged conventional norms. His focus lies on the formative years of fashion houses, where the core design DNA is most evident. For Franoux, the value of a piece is not determined by its market price but by its inherent historical and constructive significance. He recounts the painstaking acquisition of a pristine Balenciaga haute couture gown from 1938, a piece that encapsulates both baroque opulence and minimalist precision, a negotiation he undertook with the bank to secure its place in his archive.

This dedication extends to recovering lost fragments of collections, like a matching bodice found decades after its overskirt. Franoux views his collection as a dynamic, evolving entity, akin to a living organism that continues to be assembled. He envisions 'Regarderobes' as a platform for fostering unexpected dialogues between pieces from different eras and designers—a 1968 Balenciaga dress paired with a 1987 Yohji Yamamoto skirt, or a Vionnet-inspired top alongside a Comme des Garçons piece from 1988. Through curated exhibitions and future publications, he aims to inspire the same sense of excitement and intellectual curiosity that he experienced when encountering groundbreaking fashion, prioritizing the intrinsic importance of the garment itself over the celebrity of its creator.

Experience Unprecedented Speed: The Adizero Adios Pro Evo 3

The Genesis of a 'Supershoe': Redefining Running Footwear

The journey towards the fastest running shoe began in 2017 with Nike's Vaporfly, a revolutionary "supershoe" that combined extreme lightness with performance-enhancing features. Adidas has now escalated this competition with its Adizero Adios Pro Evo 3, an exceptionally lightweight shoe, tipping the scales at just 97 grams for a UK 8.5 sample size. This is a significant reduction compared to standard running shoes, which typically range from 184g to 368g, highlighting Adidas's commitment to pushing the boundaries of footwear engineering.

Innovation at Its Core: Advanced Materials and Design

After three years of dedicated research and development, the Adizero Adios Pro Evo 3 emerges as a marvel of engineering. It is 30% lighter than its predecessor and promises a 1.6% enhancement in "running economy." This improvement is primarily due to a new, ultra-light foam in the sole and a uniquely designed minimal carbon plate positioned solely around the midsole's edge. This construction maximizes energy return with each stride, propelling runners to new personal bests. Kenyan athlete Sabastian Sawe is set to debut the Pro Evo 3 at the London Marathon on April 26, a critical event for showcasing its potential to break records. A limited release of 200 pairs, priced at $500, is available to the public, with broader availability planned for the fall.

The Craft of Speed: A Manufacturing Masterpiece

Marc Makowski, Adidas's innovation chief, describes the Pro Evo 3's production as akin to crafting a luxury automobile, emphasizing its precision and intricate design. He notes that the shoe's virtually weightless feel is immediately apparent upon handling. This design philosophy, focused on maximizing speed, means every component is meticulously engineered. The goal is clear: to enable the fastest possible marathon times. The shoe represents a new standard, balancing extreme lightness with unparalleled speed, pushing the limits of what's achievable in running footwear.

The Impact of Weight: Every Gram Counts

In the world of elite running, even a single gram can influence marathon performance by seconds. While this level of detail was once reserved for dedicated athletes, the sport has now permeated mainstream culture. The global running gear market is projected to reach nearly $70 billion by 2032, a substantial increase from $45 billion in 2024. This growth is partly fueled by a rising interest in health and fitness among Gen Z, who represented the largest demographic (25%) in the 2025 New York Marathon, a significant jump from 17% in 2022. Adidas's more accessible supershoe, the $150 Evo SL, has already sold almost 10 million pairs by the end of 2025, underscoring the sport's broad appeal.

Driving Innovation: Adidas's Strategic Investment in Footwear Technology

The thriving running market underscores the strategic importance of sports brands' investments in footwear technology. Vogue Business spoke with Adidas's general manager of running, Patrick Nava, and innovation chief, Marc Makowski, to delve into the brand's three-year investment in the Pro Evo 3. They highlighted the critical role of innovative foam, which is nearly 50% lighter than previous versions, significantly reducing the shoe's overall weight. Additionally, the construction's "defoamation" (spring effect) and the precise placement of a minimalist carbon stiffening element ensure optimal energy return and stability. The shoe's upper, inspired by sailing and kitesurfing materials, utilizes ripstop textiles with strong polyester yarns, combining extreme lightness with robust stability. Every element is chosen to maximize both speed and lightness, demonstrating Adidas's unwavering commitment to performance.

The Future of Footwear: Lighter, Faster, and Beyond

Makowski believes that while further significant weight reduction beyond the sub-100 gram mark might be challenging, advancements in material science have been pivotal. The availability of diverse materials and enhanced carbon fiber composites has revolutionized supershoe development. Drawing inspiration from industries like sailing and kitesurfing, known for their ultra-light and durable materials, has also been crucial. Although extreme weight reduction might plateau, ongoing refinements and new prototypes based on the Pro Evo 3 are continually being developed. Makowski anticipates a "four-minute mile effect" for the two-hour marathon barrier, suggesting that once one athlete breaks it, many will follow.

The Strategic Imperative: Balancing Technical and Commercial Goals

Patrick Nava elaborated on the dual motivations behind the ambitious sub-100 gram target. Scientifically, reducing shoe weight by 100 grams can improve running economy by 1%, making the sub-100g mark a critical threshold for maximizing speed. While further weight reductions offer diminishing returns, achieving this benchmark was essential for creating the fastest possible shoe. Commercially, Adidas positions itself as a leader in innovation and culture within the running community. The company's substantial investment in footwear technology provides a competitive edge in a highly technical category. The transformation of running from a niche activity to a mainstream sport, driven by trends like mindfulness and well-being, further strengthens the case for influencing culture through design and cutting-edge products.

The Role of AI in Running Performance: Present and Future

AI and advanced athlete data tracking have been integral to the development of products like the Pro Evo 3. Marc Makowski emphasizes that performance data from athletes profoundly informs material choices and design decisions. While continuously monitoring advancements in AI wearables, Adidas focuses on integrating meaningful technology that offers tangible benefits to both elite and recreational runners. AI is already deeply embedded in Adidas's design processes, from validating designs to generating content and imagery, showcasing its significant contribution to product creation. Running, as the largest sporting goods market in terms of participation, remains a key priority for Adidas, with a strong commitment to developing solutions for a diverse range of runners, from competitive athletes to casual enthusiasts.