Architecture News

Petra Fagerström's debut collection at London Fashion Week, a remarkable synthesis of her past as a figure skater and her innovative vision in fashion, has captivated the industry. The collection draws an intriguing parallel between the precision and artistry of ice skating and the creative process of design, presenting a range that is both deeply personal and forward-thinking. Fagerström's unique approach combines the structured elegance of traditional haute couture with unexpected elements derived from artificial intelligence, resulting in a distinct aesthetic that immediately stands out. Her presentation reflects on the complex dynamics of mentorship, particularly within competitive environments, adding a profound narrative layer to her designs.

Fagerström, a Swedish designer and a recent graduate of Central Saint Martins MA, launched her solo collection at a serendipitous moment as figure skater Alysa Liu achieved Olympic gold. This coincidence underscored the core inspiration of Fagerström's work: her own experiences as a figure skater from age five to sixteen in Gothenburg, Sweden. She confessed to finding the simultaneous events “truly surreal,” as her collection was a “crystallized memory” of her competitive ice-skating days. The designer revealed that she paused her skating career to pursue fashion, yet the sport's influence remained a powerful undercurrent in her creative expression.

Her collection, a meditation on the “style and character of the woman coach,” was conceptualized around the blend of “outerwear and something sparkly”—a signature aesthetic that forms her unique design language. Fagerström reminisced about the distinctive fashion seen at the rink, particularly her coach’s attire, which often consisted of all-white or all-black Moncler ensembles paired with luxurious furry boots. This personal observation was transformed into tangible fashion elements, showcasing her ability to translate niche inspirations into universally appealing designs.

The influence of AI is visibly woven into Fagerström's designs, notably in her signature “double-fronted” jackets. These pieces emerged from an AI “glitch” that blurred the lines between a classic Dior Bar jacket and a practical anorak, creating an unexpectedly desirable fusion of inner structure and glamorous outerwear. The collection also skillfully combines warm-up athletic wear with dazzling sequin dresses and tabards, highlighting a dynamic interplay between comfort and opulence. Furthermore, Fagerström incorporated lenticular mirages into her printed pleats, producing captivating visual effects that shift and blur with movement. In a conscious nod to sustainability, the faux fur trims used in her collection were crafted from Biofluff, an innovative material made from natural fibers.

The presentation itself was theatrical and thought-provoking: models maintained a poised and somewhat critical stance, observing each other's walks down the catwalk. This arrangement subtly hinted at Fagerström’s deeper exploration of the coach-skater dynamic, revealing a psychological reckoning with the intense relationship between mentor and athlete. Her initial mood board prominently featured imagery of Tonya Harding, with a particular floral leotard finding its echo in the rose-and-hydrangea tapestry prints on her coats and jackets, pieces described as “extremely desirable.” Despite these allusions, Fagerström emphasized in her press release a desire to challenge the “mythology of the monstrous toxic mother-coach,” aiming instead for a collection that fostered empathy rather than villainization. This nuanced perspective was encapsulated in her collection’s evocative title, “After Everything I Did For You.”

Reflecting on the spectacular Olympic skating, Fagerström admitted to a sense of nostalgia for parts of her past sport. She drew a compelling parallel between the two demanding fields: “It’s a very similar feeling to making a collection, actually. It’s like skating a program on the ice: it’s the speed, and being so strong feels really good.” She acknowledged the brutal nature of ice skating while also appreciating its inherent flow, a sensation of floating that she equated with “incredible growth.” This disciplined athletic background, she believes, serves as an excellent foundation for a career in fashion. Fagerström's burgeoning talent has already garnered significant attention, leading to her selection as part of Paul Smith’s Residency, providing her with studio space and business mentorship. She is also poised to compete in the first round of the LVMH Prize in Paris, marking a whirlwind of activity and recognition for the promising designer.

The intersection of personal history, innovative design, and a poignant narrative defines Petra Fagerström's impactful debut. Her collection not only showcased a distinct aesthetic but also invited contemplation on the multifaceted relationships that shape ambition and artistry. By intertwining the athleticism of figure skating with the elegance of high fashion, Fagerström has carved out a unique space in the contemporary design landscape. Her rapid ascent, including recognition from prestigious programs and awards, underscores her potential as a transformative voice in the fashion world, promising a dynamic future for her brand.

Embracing Enduring Elegance: Chiuri's Vision for Fendi

A Reverent Nod to Heritage and the Power of "Us"

Maria Grazia Chiuri's inaugural collection for Fendi in Milan commenced with a clear declaration, emblazoned across the runway: "Less I, more us," articulated in both English and Italian. This foundational principle guided the collection, drawing inspiration from Fendi's storied past, particularly the five Fendi sisters. These visionary women transformed their parents' humble fur and leather enterprise in the 1940s into a globally recognized fashion empire, fueled by a formidable female dynasty. Chiuri's own professional journey is deeply intertwined with this heritage; her career began at Fendi before she made history as the first woman to lead Dior in 2016.

The Philosophy of Subtlety: Craftsmanship Over Ostentation

For her return to Fendi, after a decade steering Dior, the collection's guiding principle could succinctly be distilled into "Less is more." What unfolded on the runway was a series of exquisitely constructed garments that sought genuine appreciation rather than fleeting digital attention. While a striking tiger print coat subtly punctuated the predominant theme of understated elegance, the overall presentation exuded a quiet confidence and sophisticated restraint.

Opening with Austerity: A Symphony of Black and White

The show commenced with a powerful all-black ensemble: a chevron-patterned organza shirt dress featuring a pleated skirt, elegantly layered beneath an oversized blazer cinched by a barely discernible diagonal belt. This was followed by a cohesive range of tailored suits for both men and women, alongside delicate, ankle-length lace dresses designed for the latter. The palette remained strictly black and white until the eighteenth look, which introduced a subtle khaki coat. Color was used sparingly, appearing as a football jersey under a blazer, a printed baguette bag, and a singular red slip dress.

Evolution and Playfulness: Exploring Texture and Form

As the collection progressed, Chiuri allowed for greater creative exploration. A particular ensemble, featuring a fur-trimmed vest, a graphic T-shirt, and knee-length cargo shorts, accessorized with sheer socks, platform heels, and a baguette bag, was reinterpreted in several variations. One notable iteration replaced the vest with a camouflage jacket. Fendi's heritage as a furrier was evident in various coats, vests, and subtle fur accents on collars throughout the collection. Flight suits with diagonal zippers and 'Canadian tuxedos'—denim ensembles in indigo and cream, paired with Western boots—also made an appearance. Accessories showcased a playful edge, including lariat necklaces and detached tuxedo collars, some crafted from fur.

Chiuri's Distinctive Mark: Tailoring, Slogans, and Empowerment

Tailoring, often presented with a relaxed silhouette, was central to Chiuri's Fendi vision, a signature element of her design philosophy. Her debut collection clearly echoed motifs from her impactful tenure at Dior, which spanned from 2016 until the previous summer. Examples included a tuxedo shirt paired with a full, lace skirt, a silhouette reminiscent of her decade-long work. Chiuri's affinity for impactful slogans also remained, manifest in scarves bearing the word "impact," a T-shirt emblazoned with "NO," and the runway itself, recalling her iconic "We should all be feminists" T-shirts from Dior.

Fashion for the Modern Woman: Comfort, Expression, and Inclusivity

Chiuri's distinguished career, from her collaborations with Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino to her leadership at Dior, has consistently championed fashion that genuinely serves women. In a landscape where female designers at major fashion houses are still a rarity, her emphasis on creating garments that are effortlessly wearable is truly refreshing. These designs celebrate the natural form rather than imposing artificial constraints for the sake of novel concepts. As articulated in the show notes, these clothes are intended to "bear witness to a life lived," functioning as "dresses called on to accompany our lives, our emotions, our desires." Post-show, Chiuri highlighted the collection's focus on functional wardrobing and the deliberate blurring of gender boundaries in apparel, stating simply that "a great black blazer is a great black blazer, no matter your gender."