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Embrace the Fluidity: Murano's Vision of Modern Androgyny

The Genesis of Inspiration: Androgyny Meets Art Deco Glamour

For his second presentation at Fondazione Sozzani, designer Francesco Murano ventured into the realm of androgyny, channeling the refined Art Deco splendor associated with Tamara de Lempicka. De Lempicka, a openly bisexual artist, carved her niche in a predominantly male art world through her uniquely contemporary approach, portraying subjects that exuded an enigmatic quality, poised between masculine and feminine archetypes.

A Collection as a Gallery: Sculptural Forms and Sensual Drapes

Murano envisioned this collection as a series of artistic portraits, where his enduring fascination with Greek classical art seamlessly fused with his distinctive, sensuous bias-cut designs. Garments enveloped the body in flowing silk-jersey fabrics, reminiscent of the sculptural and sensual aesthetics pioneered by fashion legends Madame Grès and Madeleine Vionnet. Murano expressed his admiration for de Lempicka's handling of Art Deco glamour, noting its deceptive decorativeness, underlying rigor, and form-driven nature. He highlighted her mastery of chiaroscuro to sculpt the body with remarkable clarity, thereby reinterpreting classicism through a modern lens.

Sharp Silhouettes and Architectural Precision: A Nod to Photographic Masters

This artistic vision translated into streamlined, exceptionally sharp silhouettes. Further inspiration was drawn from the photographic works of Horst P. Horst and George Hoyningen-Huene, whose imagery often presented figures as mere shadows, enhancing a sense of verticality. While last season's designs incorporated ribbon motifs symbolizing futurist motion, this collection saw an architectural evolution, with structural segments extending and refining the body's contours. Angular geometric elements introduced a sculptural edge, featuring pointed details softened by an internal wire, allowing garments to be subtly molded rather than rigidly constrained.

Masterful Draping and Masculine Accents: The Art of Contrast

Murano's expertise in draping was evident, executed with greater control and anchored by structures that amplified the interplay between supple jersey fabrics and traditional tailoring. The collection introduced masculine influences through strong shoulders and meticulous construction, yet maintained a consistently fluid, bias-driven, and alluringly unadorned silhouette.

Massimo Giorgetti's latest Fall 2026 collection for MSGM offered a compelling fusion of artistic inspiration and sartorial innovation. Staged at Fondazione ICA, the presentation reimagined the space as an interactive canvas where fashion met art. Giorgetti's enduring connection to the art world was evident, particularly through his homage to Brazilian artist Marina Rheingantz and, notably, a captivating nod to Leonor Fini's cat-themed exhibition in Venice. This season, MSGM embraced a "feline era," incorporating playful yet sophisticated cat motifs into its designs. The collection masterfully explored the interplay between traditionally masculine and feminine aesthetics, alongside a vibrant palette grounded by classic neutrals, creating a narrative of "new memories" rather than mere nostalgia.

The genesis of this collection deeply rooted in Giorgetti's artistic inclinations. His appreciation for art is conveyed subtly and respectfully, devoid of any instructional tone. The inspiration from Marina Rheingantz's abstract, emotionally charged paintings provided a vivid backdrop, reflecting Giorgetti's current creative headspace. A pivotal moment for the collection's theme was Giorgetti's encounter with Leonor Fini's cat-focused exhibition in Venice. Fini's work, which delved into the mystique and allure of felines, clearly resonated with the designer, sparking what he playfully dubbed MSGM's "feline era." This artistic dialogue translated into unique design elements, such as a fierce Bengal cat motif adorning an eco-fur maxi-coat and a distinctly eerie black and white cat illustration on a duchesse satin shirt. While cats took center stage, Giorgetti's affection for his own two terriers, Pane and Coda, underscored a broader love for animal companions, suggesting a personal touch behind the brand's new mascots.

Giorgetti characterized the collection's journey as an exploration of "new memories" and "revisited memories," steering clear of the term "revisited archive" to convey a sense of freshness and lightness. A central theme was the dynamic interplay between masculine and feminine sartorial codes, a recurring motif in MSGM's collections. This concept was further reinforced by an audio clip from an interview with Leonor Fini, where she advocated for a degree of androgyny and posited that authentic style thrives in the confluence of these seemingly opposing forces. On the runway, this philosophy materialized through rhythmic contrasts: a refined cocktail ensemble might be followed by a relaxed washed-denim outfit, or a practical, oversized eco-fur-lined parka paired with a delicate, rose-dotted tank top and a flowing duchesse satin skirt. These juxtapositions were not clashes but rather clever narrative twists, demonstrating Giorgetti's preference for allowing opposing elements to harmoniously interact.

The collection also revisited MSGM's signature vibrant color spectrum, featuring prominent lime green, electric orange, and bold fuchsia. These vivid shades were skillfully balanced with a more subdued palette of grays, blacks, and neutral tones. This expert equilibrium ensured the collection maintained an artistic yet accessible quality, avoiding any sense of forced creativity. The envisioned MSGM muse for this collection is an individual who frequents international art fairs, confidently embracing fashion without reservation. Giorgetti described her as someone unafraid to mix colors, perhaps even making unconventional styling choices, yet consistently exuding an rare blend of independence and sharp wit. The underlying message is clear: while perfection may be easily forgotten, a memorable "mistake" in style truly leaves a lasting impression.

Ultimately, this collection from Massimo Giorgetti for MSGM offers a sophisticated narrative of artistic inspiration and sartorial courage. It champions the idea that true style emerges from embracing individuality, juxtaposing diverse elements, and cultivating a distinct identity, all while drawing from the rich tapestry of art and personal memory.