The Best Watches of the Year So Far: A Mid-Year Review
Discover the Unforgettable: This Year's Standout Timepieces!
The Enduring Legacy: Rexhep Rexhepi's RRCHF Chronograph
Rexhep Rexhepi has transitioned from an emerging talent to a recognized master in watchmaking, a status firmly cemented by his latest creation, the RRCHF. This exceptional timepiece reimagines the traditional chronograph, pushing the main dial's focus onto the chronograph's intricate functions, while timekeeping is subtly presented on sub-registers. It embodies Rexhepi's signature design principles: perfectly symmetrical movements, finishes typically reserved for established luxury brands, and a surprisingly slender profile. Despite housing a flyback chronograph, its case remains under 10mm thick, showcasing a remarkable feat of engineering. The watch's design emphasizes the enduring relevance and practical utility of timepieces, even in an increasingly digital age, affirming their value beyond mere aesthetics.
A Triumphant Return: Universal Genéve's Cabriolet
After a three-decade hiatus, Universal Genéve has made a grand comeback, reintroducing itself with a collection of 36 new watches. While popular models like the Polerouter and Compax garnered significant attention, the Cabriolet stands out for its bold reinterpretations. Unlike its more iconic counterparts, the Cabriolet allowed for greater design freedom. Universal Genéve capitalized on this by infusing it with a vibrant, Roaring '20s-inspired typeface called Bifur for its numerals. The full gold version, complete with a matching bracelet, is particularly captivating, despite its steep price point. This re-launch underscores a commitment to both heritage and innovative design, proving that true favorites are not always dictated by affordability.
Elegance Redefined: Merci Instruments Geometric Beaumarchais
The latest offering from French brand Merci Instruments, the Geometric Beaumarchais, is a testament to innovative design within an accessible price range. Its distinctive case, featuring a stop-sign-shaped bezel that elegantly descends into the dial, is a focal point. The watch also incorporates star-shaped indices, evoking a nostalgic nod to vintage designs like the Rolex “Star Dial.” This timepiece skillfully blends a sophisticated aesthetic with playful, 1970s-inspired elements, making it a compelling choice for those who appreciate unique and refined wristwear.
The Unmistakable Mark: Squale SUB-37 Legend
The new Squale SUB-37 Legend exemplifies the power of distinctive branding and elegant typography. Its charming shark logo, strategically placed above the 6 o’clock marker, subtly references the watch's heritage as a robust dive instrument. This iteration is notable for its enhanced wearability, thanks to a reduction in size to a mere 37mm. The vintage appeal is further amplified by the warm, toffee-colored indices and hands, complemented by the graceful cursive script for “Automatic” and “30 Atmos.” The only desire remaining is for an optional steel bracelet to complete its refined look.
Otherworldly Craftsmanship: Kollokium Projekt 02 Variant B
Kollokium, a Swiss brand, is renowned for creating some of the world's most intriguing watches, characterized by dials that resemble miniature, alien landscapes. The Projekt 02 is a prime example, with a surface crafted from 67 layered plates, meticulously designed to mimic the topographical features of a distant planet. The visual effect is deliberate, with dark gray peaks contrasting against deep black recesses. To encourage closer inspection, Kollokium has fitted the watch with a sapphire crystal that extends vertically, providing an unobstructed view of the dial's sculptural artistry from every angle. This design choice highlights the brand's commitment to creating truly immersive and unique horological experiences.
Luminous Depths: The Projekt 02's Alien Glow
The Kollokium Projekt 02 exudes an aura of something otherworldly, extending to its luminous features. A neon-yellow seconds hand, paired with hour and minute hands represented solely by glowing white outlines, enhances its mysterious appeal. The watch's full splendor is revealed in darkness, as its entirely lumed dial illuminates, transforming it into a radiant, captivating spectacle. This feature reinforces the watch's theme of a distant civilization, making it a truly unique piece that stands out in any setting.
Audacious Modernity: Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour
Audemars Piguet is expanding its iconic identity beyond the Royal Oak, as emphasized by Sebastian Vivas, the brand's heritage director. The Neo Frame Jumping Hour is a bold step in this direction, drawing inspiration from 1920s designs while manifesting a distinctly contemporary aesthetic. Its glossy black PVD-coated shell and rose-gold accents firmly anchor it in the present. As a permanent fixture in the collection, the Neo Frame signifies Audemars Piguet's current vision and future trajectory, proving that innovation can coexist with a rich historical lineage.
The Everyday Icon: Omega Speedmaster "Black & White"
The steel Speedmaster, affectionately dubbed the “Audi of Moonwatches,” occupies a sweet spot between entry-level and high-luxury timepieces. It represents an elevated yet sensible luxury option, distinguished by a subtly enhanced dial. Instead of a flat surface, this model features two plates—a black upper layer over a white base—creating a captivating depth effect. This design choice results in a desirable “panda” dial, a configuration previously unavailable in modern Speedmaster collections, making its debut a significant and welcome addition.
Versatility and Value: Dennison Dual Time “Shades”
Dennison has carved a niche with its robust and adaptable Dual Time model. Following its 2025 release, which uniquely combined two different stones on a single dial, the brand now introduces the “Shades” collection. This series cleverly utilizes the dual-faced dial with harmonious shades of green, brown, and blue, resulting in a trio of visually appealing and distinct watches. Dennison excels by transforming functionality into elegant form, much like Rolex's bi-color GMT-Master bezels. The aesthetic divisions on the Dennison watches clearly delineate the two separate time zones. While the new tall, slender numerals might seem slightly whimsical, they don't detract from the overall appeal, especially given Dennison's competitive pricing, starting at $740. This collection stands out for offering exceptional value in the watch market.